Riesling/Furmint ‘Balaton’, Weingut Moric, Lake Balaton, Hungary 2019

Riesling/Furmint ‘Balaton’, Weingut Moric, Lake Balaton, Hungary 2019

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Weingut Moric

Roland Velich began his winemaking career along with his brother and father on the family property, Weingut Velich, in Apetlon, where they produced an impressive array of white and sweet wines. However Roland’s fascination for Blaufränkisch, not suited to the vineyards on the east side of the lake, took him elsewhere and in 2001 he released the first wines from the Moric project.

Roland is outspoken, and said openly that the examples of Blaufränkisch coming out of the cellars of most producers at the time completely traduced the grape variety. He was very critical of late harvested styles, often artificially concentrated, and shoved into new oak, to appeal to some kind of Robert Parker-ian ideal.

This viewpoint lost him a few friends in the region, however he refuses to alter his central view – that Blaufränkisch is essentially a cool-climate grape variety. He talks of it as a grape with some similar characteristics to Pinot Noir, or Nebbiolo, or Northern Rhone Syrah. Others are reminded of Gamay. But all these varieties have freshness and perfume and delicacy at their best, and this is what Roland is striving to achieve.

Riesling/Furmint ‘Balaton’ 2019

This wine is a collaboration project between Roland Velich and a Hungarian producer, Villa Tolnay, in Lake Balaton. This is one of four wines he has released in collaboration with the producers from other regions in Austria and Hungary. These wines are made from the viewpoint that international borders in this region are relatively arbitrary and, in his eyes, many wines from Hungary and Austria share a common ancestry and wine-making culture.

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