Capsigrany brut, Celler de les Aus, Alella, Spain 2015
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One of the most exciting young winemakers in Europe – natural wines
Located on the same site as Alta Alella is Celler de les Aus, headed by Mireia Pujol-Busquets – the daughter of Josep Maria. Mireia has already established a reputation as one of the most exciting young winemakers in Europe and, as well as assuming many of the roles from her father in the Alta Alella operation, she has established her own micro-project, producing natural wines without the addition of any sulphites. The small yet striking winery is filled to the brim with vessels of all shapes and sizes as Mireia continually experiments in an effort to produce wines that are as pure a representation of the Alella terroirs as possible.
Pick of the whites is arguably her ‘Tallarol’, 100% Pansa Blanca (Xarelo-lo), fermented in a combination of amphorae made from Sauló soil and concrete eggs. The resulting wine burst with white fruit aromas, backed up with hints of citrus and fennel. The palate is full and aromatic with good acidity, leading to a deliciously long, saline finish. Mireia fashions her ‘Merla’ cuvee using the indigenous local grape variety of Mataró (Monastrell).
Fermented in wooden vats it then spends three months in oak before bottling. Expect an abundance of blackberry notes, alongside liquorice and bright acidity. Smooth, well integrated tannins ensure this is Good aromatic intensity which highlights flavours of fruit (blackberry) and liquorice with subtle notes of well integrated ageing in oak. Palate: Its acidity makes it a fresh wine. Smooth and persistent tannins ensure a round mouthfeel that builds to a long, fresh & savoury finish.