Wine Bar Wines!
Salut and welcome to the July edition of the l’Art du Vin wine club!
I hope that you are all well and enjoying a summer filled with good food and wine – if not maybe particularly great weather here in Scotland!
This month, the world’s spotlight will fall on Paris for the 2024 Olympics. As a host city I think it makes a perfect choice, with great infrastructure, top quality venues and, most importantly in my opinion, amazing food and drink for all the spectators to enjoy.
I may not be an athlete but I would consider myself a top level wine athlete – well, I have certainly done lots of training!
As I have mentioned before, one of my favourite qualities that wine possesses is the ability to transport us to another space or time. And so, for this month, I have made a selection that reminds me of all that is exciting about my favourite Parisien wine bars and brasseries. That way, although we may not all physically present in Paris, we can recreate the best of the city’s ambience at home while watching the Games on tv!
The wines that make up the selection are, in my opinion, quintessential “wine bar wines”. By that I mean they are unfussy, gluggable and flexible – able to be enjoyed on their own or indeed with food. They come from lesser-known regions, comprise blends of less common grape varieties and in this case, as we are imaging a Parisien scenario, they are all French!
So there you have it, your ticket to the Olympic experience is just one drop away!
I hope that you enjoy the selection.
Santé
Philippe
‘Les Bardets Blanc’, Caves de Labastide-de-Levis, Gaillac, France 2022
Producer
Located in the heart of the Gaillac vineyards in southwest France, the Cave de Labastide was founded in 1949. Situated on the banks of the river Tarn, the vineyards spread across the various terroirs of the Gaillac region, from gravelly clay to chalk and limestone, and are affected by the climates of both the Atlantic and the Mediterranean.
The mildness of the Atlantic influence reduces the risk of frost and provides much needed moisture to the vines, while the Mediterranean-affected sites provide the generous warmth that ensures ripeness and phenolic maturity in the grapes. Local native grape varieties like Mauzac, the creatively named Loin de l’oeil (‘far from the eye’, so named because of the distance of the bunch from the budding place), Braucol and Duras alongside Sauvignon Blanc, Gamay and Syrah, are used to make a wide variety of styles.
Tasting Note
Les Bardets Blanc is a blend of local varieties, Mauzac (70%) and Loin de l'oeil. Expect bags of citrus aromas with pronounced grapefruit peel. On the palate, the wine is well balanced and fresh, with more zesty citrus flavours and zippy acidity.
Food Pairing
Ideal with bright, light dishes. A particular hit with mediterranean classics like gazpacho, tuna dishes or garlic-based components such as aioli.
‘Les Bardets Rouge’, Caves de Labastide-de-Levis, Gaillac, France 2022
Producer
Located in the heart of the Gaillac vineyards in southwest France, the Cave de Labastide was founded in 1949. Situated on the banks of the river Tarn, the vineyards spread across the various terroirs of the Gaillac region, from gravelly clay to chalk and limestone, and are affected by the climates of both the Atlantic and the Mediterranean.
The mildness of the Atlantic influence reduces the risk of frost and provides much needed moisture to the vines, while the Mediterranean-affected sites provide the generous warmth that ensures ripeness and phenolic maturity in the grapes. Local native grape varieties like Mauzac, the creatively named Loin de l’oeil (‘far from the eye’, so named because of the distance of the bunch from the budding place), Braucol and Duras alongside Sauvignon Blanc, Gamay and Syrah, are used to make a wide variety of styles.
Tasting Note
For me, this is the ultimate bistro-style wine – a combination of indigenous and international varieties with brambly fruit and soft tannins.
In this case, the blend comprises Braucol (also known as Fer Servadou), Duras, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. The nose is bursting with aromas of ripe black fruit, most notably redcurrant and blackberry, before a well-rounded, soft palate.
Food Pairing
Equally enjoyable with or without food. In the kitchen, simple dishes like cassoulet, sausages or cottage pie will be ideal partners.
Sauvignon Blanc ‘AOC Chenonceaux’, Domaine de la Rochette, Loire, France 2022
Producer
Francois Leclair is among a group of local winemakers intent on driving up the levels of quality in the Touraine appellation. To reach this objective, he has taken it upon himself, along with those who share his vision in the region, to create a new appellation – AOC Chenonceaux, which was legally instated in 2011.
Located in the very heart of the sprawling Touraine appellation, Domaine de la Rochette comprises 46 hectares of vines, producing Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc and a little Malbec. Francois’ wines offer wonderful examples of Sauvignon Blanc from the Touraine area and exceptional value for money.
Tasting Note
From the very best sites of the Touraine appellation, this Sauvignon Blanc delivers lashings of fruit, yet manages to remain stylish and restrained.
This wine highlights all that is good about Loire Sauvignon Blanc – bold citrus, hints of stone fruit and white floral notes, all underpinned by a bright green edge of cut grass.
Food Pairing
The dream partner to asparagus and also a great accompaniment to goat’s cheese.
‘Le Benjamin’ Lalande-de-Pomerol, Benjamin Hessel, Bordeaux 2021
Producer
Chateau les Annereaux is located in the Lalande de Pomerol sub-region of Bordeaux. The estate has been certified organic since 2010 but Benjamin Hessel, the latest generation running the family vineyard, has the desire to have a bigger impact for the future of the planet than merely organic farming.
During his time at the helm, he has developed the agroecology on the estate, planting fruit trees, wild hedges and trees, as well as introducing bat boxes and 5 bee hives. As a result, Benjamin has ensured that the estate is now certified B Corp, an internationally recognised label known for its comprehensive assessment of social, environmental, and societal impact.
Tasting Note
The eponymous ‘Le Benjamin’ is a blend of predominantly Merlot (95%) topped up with a dash of Petit Verdot (5%).
The nose is dominated by dark fruits, most notably black cherry and blackcurrant. The palate shows great balance, with mature tannins and a long silky finish. While it only makes up a very small proportion of the blend, the presence of Petit Verdot makes a real impact to the finished wine – bringing hints of pepper and smoked flavours that act as a great foil to the ripe black fruit.
Food Pairing
An extremely versatile wine. Great with a mixed cheeseboard or a charcuterie selection but equally at home with pasta or meat dishes. And, of course, delicious when simply enjoyed on its own.