October 2023

October 2023

Unsung heroes

 

 

Welcome to the October edition of the l’Art du Vin Wine Club!

We hope that you enjoyed our rugby world cup-inspired selection last month. The rugby has certainly been entertaining but the maybe the less said the better about the results from the teams of the Auld Alliance!...

This month, we thought it would be fun to shine a light on two varieties that so often make up the supporting cast in our favourite bottlings.

Blending varieties together to produce a complex, well-rounded wine shows incredible skill as a winemaker. Some drinkers believe that a wine comprising an array of grape varieties is inferior to that produced using a monovarietal. Maybe that stems from our whisky culture in Scotland, where blends can sometimes be seen as of inferior quality.

However, when it comes to winemaking, that couldn’t be further from the truth. Wines labelled Champagne, Rioja, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Amarone are recognised among the highest-quality output in the world – as well as almost always being produced using a blend of multiple grape varieties.

While some wines are created using a melange of well-known grapes, often there are unsung heroes that make up a crucial portion of a blend yet never make it to headline act themselves.

First up we have Terret Blanc, an ancient indigenous white variety found in the Languedoc. Previously, it was predominantly used to make base wines for Vermouth. In the late 20th Century, Terret Blanc plantings dwindled in line with declining demand for both Vermouth and the aromatically neutral still wines it produces when bottled on its own. Terret Blanc is extremely high yielding, hence it’s use in Vermouth production. However, when utilised well in blends, it can add lightness, freshness and bright fruit and floral aromas.

Our second white wine features a crucial, yet small, dose of Petit Manseng. A variety that is generally used for sweet wine production, in this instance, it adds valuable acidity and a touch of richness that ensures this is a perfect blend for enjoying on an autumnal evening.

On the red side of things, we have chosen to highlight the bold-yet-floral qualities of Petit Verdot – a highly desired blending grape in red Bordeaux blends thanks to its deep colour, big tannic structure and violet aromas. Because Petit Verdot possesses such big structure, it commonly comprises less than 10% of most wine blends it is involved in. When harnessed correctly, Petit Verdot offers up ethereal aromas of plum, lilac, violet and sage with gravel-like minerality.

We that you enjoy the spotlight on these lesser-known varieties and this selection, all of which are great wines for enjoying with or without food.

And as always, thanks for your continued support!

Cheers!

Philippe

 

 

Réserve de Gassac Blanc, Mas de Daumas Gassac, Languedoc, France 2022

Producer

The story of Mas de Daumas Gassac is one of vision, enterprise, passion and pride. When Véronique and Aimé Guibert first purchased their farm in the charming Gassac valley they didn’t realise that they had stumbled upon one of the most unique micro-climates in the region, perfect for making notable, age-worthy wines.

A visiting professor from Bordeaux identified a particular red soil that was common to certain great estates in the Médoc and Grand Cru Burgundies. The family decided they would plant Cabernet Sauvignon vines on this particular plot and the story of Mas de Daumas Gassac as a top quality producer began in earnest.

Soon they were acknowledged as the first ‘Grand Cru’ producer in the Languedoc, proof that fine wines could be made in a region previously only thought of as good enough for entry level production.

The cellars at the estate are housed among the foundations of a Gallo-Roman mill. There are two cold water springs under the cellar's floor, nature's own air conditioning system, which slows the alcohol fermentation down to between 8 - 10 days. This slow process means the complex flavours have time to develop, an idiosyncrasy that is challenging to replicate with more modern, high-tech fermentation equipment and techniques.

With the passing of founder Aimé Guibert, at the age of 91 in 2016, the running of the estate has passed to his sons Samuel, Gaël, Roman and Basile. They've been working at the mas since the early 2000s and, as a team, look set to continue the to build on the fine reputation their father has established.

Tasting Note

The 'Reserve de Gassac' blanc is an unoaked blend of varieties picked from 25 year old vines — predominantly Viognier, backed up by Chardonnay and a dash of Petit Manseng. Pale straw yellow in colour, it possesses a fleshy nose of tropical fruits and green herbs before a ripe palate and long, well-balanced finish.

Food Pairing

Try this with grilled chicken or BBQ prawns. Also a very versatile match to dishes featuring a spicy kick!

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Syrah/Okuzgozu/Petit Verdot ‘Plato’, Sevilen, Izmir, Turkey 2020

Producer

The Sevilen winery was founded by Bulgarian immigrant Isa Güner in 1942, who convinced by Turkey’s potential for producing quality wines, purchased four hectares of land in Izmir and began planting vineyards.

His passion for the land led him to name his fledgling business Sevilen, meaning ‘Beloved’. Expansion took a step change under his sons, Gökhan and Coflkun, who joined the business in 1958, growing the holdings to 50 hectares.

Now run by the third generation of the Güner family, Sevilen has positioned itself as one of Turkey’s most significant high-quality wine producers.

Tasting Note

A rich blend of Syrah, Petit Verdot and the indigenous, Turkish variety of Okuzgozu. Initially there is an abundance of blackberry, plum and mulberry fruit flavours, which give way to elegant and savoury notes of spice. The tannins are finely grained and give weight and substance to the mid-palate. The finish is rich and lengthy – an indication as to the quality that is currently coming out of Turkey’s top estates.

Food Pairing

Umami-rich, Syrah-dominant wines love the grill – opt for burgers, bbq ribs, charred aubergine or portobello mushrooms.

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Cabrol Blanc, Domaine Cabrol, Pays d’Oc, France 2022


Producer

The Cabrol’s are a wine-growing family with a domaine that has been passed down for four generations. The domaine and its 17 hectares of vines are located in the small village of Castelnau de Guers, which is in the northern part of the Picpoul de Pinet AOC and is in the process of becoming a “cru village” of the Languedoc.

The estate practices sustainable viticulture and is certified by Terra Vitis. In an appellation still dominated by co-operatives, it can be rare to encounter the wines of an artisan producer. Current custodian Marc practices very conscientious viticulture. Being a member of Terravitis is an indication that the team adhere to responsible, environmentally friendly practices and promote biodiversity within their estates.

Their land is blessed with a number of natural advantages, most notably its proximity to the sea. Along with the Mediterranean climate and the fact that the team harvest at night to protect the aromas and freshness of the fruit, the wines from Cabrol are always well-balanced and gastronomically friendly.

In the winery, everything is done to ensure the wines maintain their steely freshness, so the grapes are pressed no more than 45mins after being picked, there is no pumping (everything is gravity fed) and temperature control is used to preserve the fresh fruit aromas and flavours.

Tasting Note

Dominated by Vermentino and backed up with a healthy dose of Terret, this is a bright, zingy white with creamy stone fruit notes, bright apple flavours and green, floral highlights.

Food Pairing

Perfect for sipping solo or for partnering fresh fish, light salads or scallops.

Order this wine

 

 

Cabrol Rouge, Domaine Cabrol, Pays d’Oc, France 2020

Producer

The Cabrol’s are a wine-growing family with a domaine that has been passed down for four generations. The domaine and its 17 hectares of vines are located in the small village of Castelnau de Guers, which is in the northern part of the Picpoul de Pinet AOC and is in the process of becoming a “cru village” of the Languedoc.

The estate practices sustainable viticulture and is certified by Terra Vitis. In an appellation still dominated by co-operatives, it can be rare to encounter the wines of an artisan producer. Current custodian Marc practices very conscientious viticulture. Being a member of Terravitis is an indication that the team adhere to responsible, environmentally friendly practices and promote biodiversity within their estates.

Their land is blessed with a number of natural advantages, most notably its proximity to the sea. Along with the Mediterranean climate and the fact that the team harvest at night to protect the aromas and freshness of the fruit, the wines from Cabrol are always well-balanced and gastronomically friendly.

In the winery, everything is done to ensure the wines maintain their steely freshness, so the grapes are pressed no more than 45mins after being picked, there is no pumping (everything is gravity fed) and temperature control is used to preserve the fresh fruit aromas and flavours.

Tasting Note

A blend of Petit Verdot and Syrah, this wine is packed with plums, blackberries and cherries, all underpinned with hints of violet and deep, earthy character.

Food Pairing

An ideal autumnal red to accompany a night in front of the fire! Also at home when served alongside veal, lamb stew or sausage casserole.

Order this wine