Blaufränkisch, Weingut Moric, Burgenland, Austria 2019
Regular price £25.50
Roland Velich began his winemaking career along with his brother and father on the family property, Weingut Velich, in Apetlon, where they produced an impressive array of white and sweet wines. However Roland’s fascination for Blaufränkisch, not suited to the vineyards on the east side of the lake, took him elsewhere and in 2001 he released the first wines from the Moric project.
Roland is outspoken, and said openly that the examples of Blaufränkisch coming out of the cellars of most producers at the time completely traduced the grape variety. He was very critical of late harvested styles, often artificially concentrated, and shoved into new oak, to appeal to some kind of Robert Parker-ian ideal.
This viewpoint lost him a few friends in the region, however he refuses to alter his central view – that Blaufränkisch is essentially a cool-climate grape variety. He talks of it as a grape with some similar characteristics to Pinot Noir, or Nebbiolo, or Northern Rhone Syrah. Others are reminded of Gamay. But all these varieties have freshness and perfume and delicacy at their best, and this is what Roland is striving to achieve.
An earthy yet playful middleweight red with complexity and enjoyability at the forefront of a well balanced and varietally correct wine.