Gruner Veltliner, Zero-G, Wagram, Austria 2019
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Wagram may be one of Austria’s more obscure wine regions, but if Arnold Holzer’s talent is anything to go by, that may well change.
Wagram sits on the River Danube northwest of Vienna, and is notable for its pure loess soils. Arnold tends thirteen hectares of vineyards, planted principally to native Austrian grapes. This is an example of hands-off winemaking, with temperature-controlled fermentation and avoidance of oak preserving the natural fruit and texture of the wine. Inspired by the gravity-defying antics of the Austrian mountain goats, his wines are light yet full of varietal character.
Light in body yet intensely flavoured, this Grüner Veltliner offers the typical white pepper and crisp green fruit aromas of the variety, allied to a creamy texture particular to the Wagram region. The balance is really satisfying, the wine refreshing from start to finish.